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Acne is a beast, and acne scars can be a frustrating reminder of past breakouts. They affect skin texture and your confidence. While they may seem hard to tackle, certain treatments and ingredients can help fade scars and improve skin’s appearance over time.

Let’s explore the causes of acne scars, effective ways to treat them, and the best ingredients to help fade and repair these scars for clearer, smoother skin.

What Causes Acne Scars?

Acne scars form when acne lesions damage the skin, leading to inflammation and, ultimately, scar tissue. Different types of acne scars exist, including:

•  boxcar scars (broad, shallow scars), 
• ‘ice pick scars (deep, narrow scars), and 
• hypertrophic scars (raised scars due to excess tissue). 

Basically, when you have a pimple and it doesn’t heal right, it can leave a scar behind. Factors like acne type, skin type, and even genetics can impact the formation and appearance of scars. Unfortunately, some of us are just genetically more likely to get scars after acne. 

How Do We Fix Acne Scars?

Even if we can’t stop ourselves from getting a scar after a large pimple, we can treat them once they’re here. (And of course we can do our best to prevent breakouts, which I know is easier said than done.) But even if we’re experiencing breakouts that aren’t under control yet, we can still take action to treat the scars that appear. 

There’s no special specific treatment for acne scars. You improve them through the same techniques that you would use for any other kind of skin issue: encouraging your skin to turn over and expose new healthy skin. 

That means improving collagen production, removing dead skin cells, and enhancing cell turnover can help reduce the appearance of scars. Popular methods include chemical peels, microneedling, and home solutions like alpha hydroxy acids. 

Home Solutions – Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, are excellent at-home solutions for managing mild acne scarring. AHAs work by gently exfoliating the skin’s surface, which can smooth uneven skin tone and improve the appearance of dark spots. For sensitive skin, opting for lower-concentration products can help prevent irritation while still providing the benefits of exfoliation. By increasing cell turnover, AHAs can reveal new skin, gradually reducing the appearance of acne scars.

You can opt for an AHA serum that will improve the appearance of acne scars in a slow and steady way. (The nice thing about AHAs is when you first start using it, you get an improvement in brightness right away! So that encourages you to keep going. After that, you’ll see slow, steady improvement in scarring.)

You can easily buy AHA in a serum over-the-counter. I like the Pacifica brand from Target: 

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​This is a mild exfoliant you can use every other day or so. No downtime or peeling from a product like this. 

Beta hydroxy acids dissolve oil and are generally not as effective for scarring (though I’ve written about BHAs like salicylic acid here). BHAs might help  manage your acne, but they won’t improve existing scars. More details on ingredients below. 

Home or Spa Solution – Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are a popular acne scar treatment that can be done at home or by a professional. 

These peels use stronger concentrations of acids exfoliate the skin deeply.  addressing uneven skin tone and improving skin texture. Chemical peels come in various strengths and target different types of scars. While over-the-counter products are mild, professional treatments can be more potent, often yielding better results in a shorter time. However, those with darker skin tones or sensitive skin should consult a board-certified dermatologist to avoid adverse reactions.

My favorite source for chemical peels at home is Makeup Artist’s Choice. You can buy peels of all strengths through them. START SLOW and be conservative until you know how your skin is going to react. The first time I shopped with them I thought I would start with a conservative 30% Glycolic Peel and work my way up. I found that the 30% was all I needed! So go slow, do less than you think you need. You can always add another layer of a too-weak peel, but you’ll be sorry if you accidentally apply one that’s too strong. 

• Glycolic Acid: As a small-molecule AHA, glycolic acid exfoliates deeply and effectively. Regular use can help reduce the appearance of acne scars, especially for those with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
• Lactic Acid: Another AHA, lactic acid gently removes dead skin cells and improves skin tone, making it a good option for sensitive skin. It also offers hydrating benefits, unlike some other acids.
• TCA peels: ​trichloroacetic acid is a peel that can be used at many different strengths and concentrations. In a stronger concentration, it is a very aggressive peel. It deserves special mention because of the CROSS technique for icepick scars​ — this is very effective but should never ever be done at home. I highly recommend reading that very short article if you have icepick scarring! 
• Mandelic Acid: another more mild peel that’s particularly good for melanated skin. People of color who experience hyperpigmentation after trauma to the skin often fare better with mandelic acid. If you’re hyperpigmentation-prone, it’s so important to test the acid elsewhere on your body first, and to do milder peels more often rather than one big harsh peel. 

Home or Spa Solution – Microneedling

My love for microneedling is well-documented on this blog. You can do it yourself and it’s like turning the clock back a little bit every time you do it. I’m slightly convinced that as long as I keep microneedling I will basically never age. (I’ll let you know how it works out.)

Microneedling involves tiny needles creating microscopic injuries in the skin to stimulate collagen production. This minimally invasive treatment is ideal for improving the appearance of depressed acne scars, like boxcar scars. I kind of think the CROSS technique is better for icepick scars than microneedling is, but microneedling is far less expensive, especially if you DIY. 

The dermapen and cartridges are all you need to get started, and they cost less than a single microneedling treatment: 

 Microneedling can be done at home with a microneedling device.  You’ll get better results from professional treatments if you only do one, but if you buy the device, the ability to do it once a month means you can get great results over time for much less money. This procedure encourages skin regeneration, gradually enhancing skin texture and fading scars. You generally see the full results of a treatment within six weeks, similar to a chemical peel.

Spa Solution – Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion is an in-office treatment that targets the skin’s surface, helping with dark spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This procedure removes the top layer of the skin, which reduces the appearance of mild scars and dark marks.  Microdermabrasion doesn’t hurt, and some people love it. Results are less dramatic than microneedling or a light chemical peel, but treatments are generally very inexpensive. 

Microdermabrasion can be beneficial for most skin types but may not be ideal for deeper scars. It’s a painless option for those seeking a non-invasive way to improve skin texture.

Who Shouldn’t Do Peels?

Chemical peels, especially medium to deep ones, aren’t suitable for everyone. Those with highly sensitive skin or certain skin conditions, like eczema or rosacea, may experience further irritation. People with darker skin tones need to take extra caution, as certain peels can increase the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Consulting a board-certified dermatologist is the best way to determine if chemical peels are a safe option based on individual skin type.

Best Ingredients for Acne Scars

Incorporating specific ingredients into your skincare routine can significantly help with fading acne scars and improving overall skin health.

• Vitamin C: With potent antioxidant properties, vitamin C helps lighten dark spots and reduce the appearance of acne scars. It’s best to apply vitamin C in the morning to protect the skin from environmental damage.
• Retinol: Over-the-counter retinols can boost cell turnover, fade scars, and reduce fine lines. They can help stimulate collagen production, making scars less visible over time. These are milder than retinoids, but they’re effective over time as well. In the US, these are available in drugstores. 
• Retinoids: ​Prescription retinoids like tretinoin will give you a serious push for skin turnover and make a significant difference in your skin! In the US, you need a prescription for tretinoin and other retinoids. The adjustment period can be rough, and it’s best to start with a mild concentration and move up if you need to. 
• Azelaic Acid: This unique acid works as an anti-inflammatory, ideal for reducing redness and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It’s often recommended for darker skin tones as it targets dark spots without causing excessive irritation. I love azelaic acid for rosacea or sensitive skin too! 

Each of these ingredients provides unique benefits, so finding the right combination based on your skin type and the type of acne scarring you have can make a noticeable difference.

Final Thoughts

There is an option that will work for you! Addressing acne scars requires the right ingredients, techniques, and possibly some professional treatments. From gentle exfoliants to deeper treatments like microneedling and microdermabrasion, there are many ways to improve the appearance of acne scars. For those with persistent or severe scarring, consulting a board-certified dermatologist can provide guidance on the best options tailored to individual skin needs. You deserve to feel good in your skin!